The choice of edible
crops in Raymond Blanc garden this month is incredible. Each one was selected
for flavour and approved by the man himself.
Chefs have the use
of 60 different types of vegetables, from roots to brassicas, legumes to
perennials, in 250 different varieties. There are 90 annual and perennial
herbs, daily supplies of fresh microleaves and no less than 40 unusual crops
from Asia and around the world. There are also taste trials every year for new
organic varieties on the market. It is for this range of produce that guests
flock from home and abroad.
Fantastic flavours
Raymond crop choice
is never swayed by uniform shapes and sizes, high yields or enhanced vigour.
For this reason, the learn often grows F1 hybrids, or heritage varieties that
enable them to rediscover flavours from the past. This is also the criteria for
fruit choice the tastiest are grown, so anything from local heritage varieties
to modern day types goes.
The team decides on
an annual basis which growing trials are going to be undertaken.
The aim is to select
two varieties from each trial, in case one of them is discontinued. Raymond,
the development chefs, senior chefs, head vegetable gardener Jo and another veg
gardener are all involved with the taste trials, and the varieties that are
picked are the ones that best suits the kitchen. All tastings are recorded,
commented and stored, along with the growing season weather data. Along with
the trials, the team enjoys old favourites, such as the elongated radish
Breakfast’, a scarlet heritage variety tipped with white, with a sweet flavour
and crunchy texture. It is entertaining to see liny and enormous types of
beetroot grown together (right).
A crop that has been
available to harvest all year is the micro leaves are basically tiny seedlings
of vegetables that are harvested and eaten at a very young stage. They are
bursting with flavours, colours and textures, and offer the chefs a chance to
add a taste experience like no other. Eaten raw, they all add plenty of healthy
nutrients to a dish. Although small, do not underestimate the burst of flavour
they offer. The team here has grown micro leaves for 15 years, and is expert in
this field. In the poly tunnels, there are a patchwork of seed trays growing
with tiny and tasty celery leaf, dill, coriander, red cabbage, sorrel, beetroot
and the mustards Giant’, Streaksin - snow’. The more challenging types to grow
include amaranth, perilla and ice lettuce. These crops have the flavours of the
mature crop from the tiny leaves but in a much stronger hit. The celery leaf
gives an intense celery flavour; the watercress is an earthy, strong, pepper
taste; and coriander has a vibrant zingy tang.
The production of
micro leaves is 365 days a year, seven days a week, as they play such a vital
role in the kitchen. The ability to produce perfect microleaves that can be
harvested every morning is key, and the varieties are changed throughout the seasons
to work in harmony with the menus and dishes the chefs want to create.
Micro leaves and
salads have to be tested to discover at what lime in their maturity they offer
the most intense taste. The team also look at the structure of the leaf to
check it is robust and hardy - enough to hold a dressing. It is important to
note that not all veg can be grown and harvested as micro leaves, as some have
poisonous foliage to avoid include parsnip and tomato.
Potato tastings are
also carried out in September. All of them are cooked in several different
ways. Tomato and apple testing also takes place, with apples lasted raw, as a
puree and baked, to help figure out how they will be used in the kitchen.
It is not unusual
for crops to be trialled again and again, as some will perform differently from
one year to the next, due to the influences of weather and soil conditions. One
crop that remains consistent in flavour is the carrot ’, which offers a sweet
flavour and can be sown direct outside from late February until August. It a
great idea to sow carrots next to a line of onions, as the strong onion perfume
will confuse the carrot fly pest.
Head gardener's notes
The whole learn
enjoys lasting the produce, and the French beans have teen a recent trial,
along with the beetroot no one goes hungry here! Our small beetroots are used
whole in the kitchens, while large types are for juicing.
In the kitchen
garden, Jo Campbell is busy sowing green manures (such as field beans and
phacelia), winter salad and spinach. Believe it or not, we will be keeping an
eye out for early frosts, as we need to dig up frost - tender plants such as
lemon verbena, lemon grass and Vietnamese coriander. They will spend winter in
a healed polytunnel.
In the ornamental
garden, we will soon start to lift and divide perennials. I put leaf mould made
last year around the moved plants to conserve moisture and give them a head
start. Leaf mould bins are repaired for the onslaught of leaves that are
heading their way, and ponds are netted to prevent the balance from being
disturbed by falling leaves. Before you net ponds, it a sensible lime to thin
out those invasive oxygenating plants.
September is also
when we have our clean’. Polytunnels and glasshouses are not as packed as they
were, so we wash and disinfect the plastic and glass to let in as much light as
possible and prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Once clean, we pul up
bubble wrap to insulate the glasshouses for winter.
Drifts of daffodils
are planted, but we hold back on the tulip planting for now. On 25 September,
we plant our prepared hyacinths to ensure that there are flowers on Christmas
Day for our guests. Another really exciting job is to sow sweet peas. Some
might say this is early, but we always have great success (when done under
cover).
A major task for the
team this month is to trim the hedges is our last chance before winter sets in.
Hedge trimmers are used for the smaller - leaved hedges, while secateurs are
the tool of choice for the larger - leaved plants, to avoid damaging leaves.
Lawns are still
being cut every week, and we will soon start our autumn lawn - care regime,
which includes scarifying to get rid of moss and thatch, aerating the lawn,
filling hollows with top dressing and applying an autumn grass feed. Never be templed
to apply leftover spring feed, as this has the wrong nutrient balance and will
lead to a lush sward, which could encourage serious fungal problems.
We hope for good
weather this month, as there is so much to do.
Prune and plan
Fruiting plants
This is the month
that the team looks to make changes to the garden. It is fast approaching the
best Lime to move plants, so planning ahead is key. It is also an important
month for keeping an eye on fruiting plants, as the weight of the fruit may
well start to cause strain on the branches.
Many of the fruit
trees at Le Manoir are old but have kept a neat habit thanks to restorative
pruning by the team. Although most people prune their trees in December after
fruiting, Anne Marie and the team prune off any non - fruiting shoots now, to
keep that neatly shaped appearance. This is not so easy, as knocking the
branches can cause an early drop the use of a long - handled tree pruner.
Another fruiting
plant group that needs some attention is the vines, which are laden with fruit
at this time of year. Ben Nash has the tricky task of replacing the lies that
hold the vines to the galvanised wires on the wall. To avoid culling into the
branches, a natural twine is used plastic ties, as this will cause damage. All
grapes need some sort of support to carry their heavy fruits. Prune vines in
late November by taking the side branches back to two buds. Thin the fruits in
spring and enjoy fruits in late September.
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