Where the wild things are

23:15 / /


Once, on a penniless cycling trip around the Mediterranean, I spotted a gaggle of black - clad women in dark headscarves and thick woollen stockings, bent double at the side of the road. They were probing the undergrowth with hefty sticks and so absorbed that I assumed they were hunting for a lost wedding ring or a small child. Out of sheer curiosity, and to avoid swerving around them and into the middle of the road, I stopped. When they realised I was there, they looked up, laughing, and held out fists of fine green and purple shoots.

Perhaps I looked hungry (I was living on very little) because they took it upon themselves to give me a quick lesson in hunting for what I now know is wild asparagus. It was early spring and for several weeks afterwards, I came upon other groups of asparagus - hunters. Everyone was at it, from shepherds foraging along the edges of crumbling stone walls while their animals grazed nearby, to whole families on Sunday gathering excursions.
Since then, I been introduced by Greek and Italian friends to a whole range of wild Mediterranean food, so that now, whenever I in that part of the world, I find myself out on the hills or wandering along roadsides collecting oregano, thyme, dill, rosemary, bay leaves, borage, wild garlic, dandelions, and milk thistles. On occasions, I even bagged a bunch of garden greens such as ratheki (red - ribbed chicory), the result of seeding plants tossed over a fence with an apron - load of weeds.
My foraging is a real help when it comes to increasing health and reducing expenses while travelling but, more importantly, through it, I come to understand how essential wild foods are to a peasant cuisine which does not necessarily rely on the garden, or the best greens in it, to make the most delicious dishes. Consequently, when at home in New Zealand, I now reconsider carefully before tossing any imperfect greenery into the compost pile and I often to be found along my own roadsides around dinner time with a basket and knife. If you want to go gathering, here are some tips for where to look, what to gather, and how to put it all together into a mouth watering almost - free peasant pie (known in Greece as spanakopita).
Foraging in the wild
If you in the country, you got it made, but even urban - dwellers can find wild greens. Where ever you live, forage away from roadsides which may have been sprayed, and if you can identify for sure what you about to pick, don take it. Look for: milk thistle (commonly known as puha), dandelion, thyme, fennel, wild onion, chickweed, garden escapees such as perennial parsley and borage.
Note: wild brassica plants are often readily available but if you harvest them, save them for a salad. Brassicas donsuit peasant pie.
Hunting at home
Peasant pie doesn require your best veges. Go for greens that might otherwise be wasted:
  • the leaves of going - to - seed silverbeet, spinach, celery, parsley, and leeks
  • beetroot and broad bean leaves
  • overblown and outside leaves of lettuce, endive, and chicory
  • chives and spring onion tops
  • coriander and borage
  • fennel and dill
The goodness of wild greens
Wild greens are thought to be even richer in these healthy components than their domesticated garden - grown relatives and may be one of the factors that makes the traditional Mediterranean diet so healthy.